▲ Rice and peas, bread and butter, tea and rich tea biscuits, Korean pancake (jeon) and rice wine (makgeolli) - some things are just meant together. Photo by Patrick Conway

Name: Tak Tak

Where: 43 Gwangyang 13-gil

Directions: From the main pedestrian crossing in City Hall, cross toward the east and follow Gwangyang 13-gil for six blocks to see Tak Tak on your left.

Hours: 5 p.m. to 5 a.m. everyday except Sunday.

Menu: They specialize in seafood bindaetteok and pajeon, potato-based Korean pancakes. Also available are a host of hearty stews including fishcake "odengtang.” Jeju makgeolli, or rice wine, is the main drink on offer.

Taste: Arguably better than similar places in the area.

Price: Figure on 10,000 to 12,000 won for a pancake or stew which feeds at least two. 6,000 won for two bottles of makgeolli served in a traditional kettle.

Interior: Traditional style. A few nice pieces hanging on the walls. Cosy.

Atmosphere: A good place for a chat with friends as there is no loud music or overbearing customers.

Staff: The middle-aged Korean lady who serves you is as friendly and polite as you could wish for. If it's chilly, she'll even put a little heater beside you to keep you warm. Her partner cooks in the back.